Dogs are expensive... the food, the vet, the Halloween costumers. - Bob Belcher, Bob's Burgers

General Kael Sword

Build Materials

Multiple Thicknesses of EVA-38 Foam (TNT)
Steel Rod, 3/8″
Barge TF Contact Cement
Black Leather

Build Process

Sword Core

The blade is made from two long strips of 6mm EVA Foam (TNT). The core of the sword is a 3/8″ steel rod. The first step was to cut 2 pieces of 6mm foam to the rough width of the blade and cut out a channel with a rotary tool. This is the same method used for Sorsha’s sword as well.

In retrospect, it would have been smarter to put in two rods and leave the center open because of the fuller. If you look at it up close, you can see the rod through the foam since the fuller is on both sides. We could’ve also just shaded it a different color, but I think at that point it was too late for that.

The Scalloped Edge

The design of the scalloping in the edge of the sword is actually offset like it is in the movie prop. I left this part to Tom and he was covered in black EVA foam dust from head to toe. I stand by my decision!

The Scalloped Edge – Transformed

This is what the shape of the blade looked like after the scalloping was finished. You can see the scalloping on the edge looks really good here. Tom, was the main builder for both swords and had the patience to grind out each groove in the scallop with a rotary tool.

The Fuller

Grinding in the fuller was a two-person undertaking, because of the types of tools we had at our disposal. Tom’s drill press needed some maintenance and was out of commission for this. I bought a plunge jig for a drill and after some careful measuring, we locked the plunge depth and ground out the fuller with a round sanding bit purchased at Ax-Man Surplus. This is when we discovered the metal rod was a problem and was showing through if we went too deep, so ultimately we had to fudge the fuller a little bit.

The (Mostly) Finished Hilt

I made the guard piece and the attached rings and Tom made everything else. The rings aren’t rigid so it’s easy for them to get misshapen. I should have reinforced it with wire or used a more rigid material. The guard is butted to the blade with the metal rod going all the way through the handle. Tom stacked rings and shaped the handle and pommel.

Sword Frog and Holders

I bought 2 frogs for the swords. I kept the scabbard simple since I wanted the sword to be visible, even when it was in the holder.

I built an open box from styrene plastic and wrapped the interior and exterior with 2mm EVA Foam. The frog was designed for a smaller scabbard, but I made it work.

Stargate Zat’Nik’Tel

I spent a long time watching the Quantum Mechanix video featuring the never-to-be-released working Zat’Nik’Tel and I’ve been dreaming up building my own functioning version ever since. This is a work in progress. I printed most of the pieces hollow to fit electronics and a battery pack. I’m not sure if it’s doable with this particular model, but I’m going to give it a shot.

Stargate Mk2 with DHD

I started building a Working Stargate Mk2 with Working DHD and SFX, designed by Glitch. I’m slowly working my way through the Arduino and stepper motor configuration. The documentation for this project is not spectacular, but the framework is there and it was a fun puzzle to figure out. It’s definitely not perfect, but still workable.

Printer: Creality Ender 3
Filament: HATCHBOX PLA (Silver), Overture PETC (Black), Duramic PETG (White)
Adhesive: Bob Smith Thick CA Glue
Electronics: Arduino Uno, Arduino Nano, DFPlayer MP3 Player, Nema-17 Stepper Motor, Miscellaneous Electronic Components, 24AWG Stranded Copper Silicone Wire

Halo M6D Magnum

I got an opportunity to participate in the Punished Props Secret Santa Exchange for the first time in 2019, and I put together a 3D printed M6G Magnum from Halo. It featured a working slide and trigger, as well as a removable clip. It was a great pleasure to join in on the prop making fun and deliver not one, but two completed pistols to the awesome @tim_makes. My friend, Tom, helped me with the second model. Painting is not my strong suit since I have red-green colorblindness and it makes color matching difficult.

Model Details


Printer: Creality Ender 3
3D Files: M6D Magnum Sidearm on Thingiverse

Model 1 (Printed on my Ender 3) –
Material: 3D Solutech Silver PLA (Print #1), Filament Friday Black PLA (Print #2)
Paint: Poly-Props SEAL Prime – Black, Poly-Props HEX-ART Metallics – Steel, Poly-Props Valour Clear Coat
Filler: Smooth-On XTC-3D, Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty
Other Materials: Hand-made springs from spring steel wire, Bob Smith CA Glue

Model 2 (Printed on Tom’s Ender 3) –
Material: Inland Blue PLA
Paint: Rustoleum Black Primer, Angelus Acrylic Paints, Angelus Clear Coat
Filler: Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty
Other Materials: Hand-made springs from spring steel wire, Gorilla CA Glue

Build Details


Punished Props Secret Santa 2019
Halo M6D Magnum Replicas, prepared for shipment to @tim_makes

This was my first major 3D printed project, despite having my Ender 3 for some time. I ran into a lot of issues with my printer not being calibrated correctly and the angles were not true. Along with a bit of vibration in the printer and cable management issues, printing was fraught with problems. However, most of my problems were solved and minor defects could be covered during finishing.

First Prototype (Failed)

This one had a number of issues, not the least of which was jitters in the surface and curling issues which caused assembly issues. I believe most parts were discarded. Technically, this was the second model I printed. My original plan involved a stationary M6D that I printed hollow to install electronics, but it didn’t pay off. The model was structurally weak and I didn’t know enough about layering back then.

Test Assembly of the 3D Printed Parts, First Printing Attempt

This was (part of) the first-first prototype model I printed.

Preparing model for priming. Bondo Spot Putty was used to even out the uneven surfaces left by the XTC-3D resin. I can’t seem to find any photos I took with just the XTC-3D layer applied.


The slide was assembled after the main body was primed. You can see the layer of spot putty on the slide handle.

Primed main M6D body.

The HexArt Metallics “Steel” paint sputtered while spraying, which actually left a cool texture behind. Everything was sealed up later with the Valour Clear Coat.

M6D with HexArt Metallics Steel applied.

Klingon Baldric

This is a replica of Worf’s Baldric from Star Trek: The Next Generation.

I found some information on building this baldric on YouTube. I had been researching the project for quite a while. I was able to source the proper parts to make it.

Materials: Aluminum Rings, Square Saddle Rings, Leather

Sources:
 – Aluminum Spacers: AluminumSpacers.com
 – Saddle Rings: PET Hardware in Prague, CZ
 – Black Cow Leather: Red Wing Shoes in Red Wing, MN (a gift from my sister)

The Baldric in Action: CVG2019
I wore the baldric during a Star Trek meetup at CONvergence 2019 in Minneapolis. Also, to the Star Trek Pub Crawl previously.