Tag: nockmaar

Helmet: EVA Foam, Foam Clay, Styrene, Leather
Chest Armor: EVA Foam, Leather, Buckles
Cape: Fleece
Sword: EVA Foam with a 3/8″ Metal Core, Leather

General Kael’s Helmet & Facemask

EVA Foam – 4mm & 6mm, TNT Cosplay Supply
Foam Clay – C4 Foam Clay, TNT Cosplay Supply
Styrene Plastic Sheet – TNT Cosplay Supply
Aluminum Chainmail Coif – Split for Kael’s Helmet and Sorsha’s Collar
Faux Fur – Part of my winter coat that I didn’t need. It was removable.
Leather, Gun Metal Colored Rivets, Stainless Steel Screws

The helmet was built as a combination of two templates. The facemask I had already built with no purpose in mind. A little bit of trimming and adjustment and I was able to fit a pivot point for the mask to flip. Hardware was later changed to stainess steel since I have a metal allergy.

Base – Evil Ted’s Viking Helmet (Lower Half)
Facemask – Kamui Cosplay’s Villian Mask (with adjustments descrbe below)

General Kael – Helmet Base Construction

General Kael – Facemask Reference

I used auction photos, as well as other reference photos to sculpt the facemask. The base is Kamui’s Villain Mask with a foam block added at the bottom to fill out the jawline. My understanding is that the mask is a Troll skull, like the ones crawling all over the Castle at Tir Asleen.

General Kael – Facemask Sculpting with Foam Clay

It took several applications to sculpt the mask fully. I went a little thick and it took a while to dry. This part was really a lot of fun and easy to carried away on. In this case, the sculpt was a little less symmetrical but pretty close. I think this added to the organic look of the skull.

I used TNT’s C4 Foam Clay for this mask. The texture is softer and is more pliable. I think they use some sort of flexible PVA in the formulation. I really like it. Pixiss has a similar formula to TNT’s and is sold on Amazon, if that’s easier to get. 

The density of the Foam Clay sold by Foam-Mo and SKS Props didn’t feel right for this kind of sculpt. The formulation of these two brands are very similar, if not the same. I used this foam to make the spikes for my shoulder armor. This foam can get brittle.

General Kael – The Troll Teeth

I can’t tell you how much fun it was to sculpt Troll teeth with the foam. I ended up making a generic upper and lower jawline before added the teeth. I rolled the teeth out individual and smoothed them into the upper and lower sections. It was fun making the broken and impacted teeth as well.

General Kael – The Helmet Fins

https://youtube.com/watch?v=d-l2mjPt_mQ%3Floop%3D1%26playlist%3Dd-l2mjPt_mQ%26controls%3D0

Thermoplastic Sheeting is not very rigid…

I had less than stellar results with the original fins. I used a thermoplastic sheet that had a lot of flex. 

I later changed this to a Styrene sheet, also from TNT Cosplay Supply. I curled it using can of some kind, if I remember correctly, and a heat gun.

General Kael – Helmet Features

The details were fun to put together. I think the leather strip along the center line could have turned out a little better. I used scrap brown leather for this part. After this, I added tassels of hair, made from a cheap, black wig and bead crimp loops.

The strip under the leather weave and along the bottom is 2mm EVA Foam, folded over on both sides of the lip of the helmet. There’s a section of clothes hanger wire inside to prevent the chainmail rings from tearing through.

General Kael – Helmet Features

This poorly smudged out photo (I’m definitely not a great graphics person), features the helmet flipped up. You can see that I’ve fully commited to the part, replicating Kael’s shaved moustache center and I let my beard and hair grow wild.

General Kael’s Armor

Front Chest Plate – 6mm EVA-50 High Density Foam, TNT Cosplay Supply
Chest Armor – 6mm EVA-38 Foam, TNT Cosplay Supply
Back Armor – 10mm EVA-38 Foam, TNT Cosplay Supply
Chest Armor Scales – 4mm EVA-38, TNT Cosplay Supply
Shoulder Spikes & Fan Symbol on Upper Chest – Foam-Mo Foam Clay
Faux Rivets – Metal Sewing Buttons, Square Pyramid Rivets
3/4 Length Fleece Cape from Etsy
Leather Sword Gloves
Scrap Leather and Buckles

Chest Armor, In-Progress

The chest armor base is another one of Evil Ted’s patterns, resized to my dimensions and modified to fit the cut-out of the armor in the movie. The back of the armor is 10mm Foam so the armor would have a similar weight and feel in the front and back.

General Kael’s armor in the movie is leather with metal shoulders, shin guards, and a gauntlet cover on his sword hand.

Base – Evil Ted’s Basic Male Body Armor
Facemask – Kamui Cosplay’s Villian Mask (with adjustments descrbe below)
Gauntlet – Freehand cut from 4mm TNT EVA Foam with scrap leater buckles.
Shin Guards – Freehand cut from 6mm SKS HD Foam

Chest Armor, “Leather” Scales

The scales were cut from 4mm EVA Foam. I used one foam scale as a template and used scissors to cut them out. I sanded the edges lightly with finer grit sandpaper to give it an organic, worn look. The leather look was achieved by crumpling and flattening a piece of aluminum foil and pressing it lightly with a hot iron.

I had to scale the size of each piece to match the number of rows and colums of the movie version. Each one was glue at about 1/3 of the base and overlapped with each row.

Tom usually paints my stuff because I have a color deficiency issue along with red-green colorblindness. He wasn’t too thrilled about having to paint the scales after they were assembled. I tend to get overzealous with the build portion.

The Chest Plate Border

I used half-round foam to create a border for the chest plate. I would’ve liked to use something thinner, in maybe a 1/4 round version but… Con Crunch was on at this point.

The Chest Isignia

I learned a couple of lessons working with vegetable tanned leather. This applies only to me though, so if you find a method that works for you, go for it. I have a friend that teaches leather tooling classes and I’m tempted to take a class or buy one of his guides.

1. You really only need a few tools to accomplish this kind of work. I got really overzealous and bought a large kit with too many things to store. The metal tools get really heavy in a single organizing case. 

2. Get a leather scribe. Using a gel ink pen was a terrible idea. It’s especially bad if you’re planning to dye the leather when you’re finished. Luckily, might was painted with Angelus Acrylic Paints.

3. Don’t use too much water. It makes it too soft and hard to keep a print. Too little is also a problem as well, if it dries out before you can get a pattern to set. It also took a really long time to dry. Use a spray bottle. 

4. It’s way harder to do that it looks. I did a pretty terrible job, but it’s a passable specimen for a first attempt. (Actually second. I messed up the first one.)

Painted Chest Insignia

Painted with Angelus Acylic Paint. I believe it also got a clear top coat after the armor was fully painted.

The Fan Emblem

This took a few tries, but I made the Fan Emblem (above the chest insignia) from Foam-Mo Foam Clay. I rolled out several small lines of foam and curled them. I cut them in half to get the mirroring right.

Shoulder Armor

The shoulder armor was built from a should armor pattern, but I can’t recall which one. I believe it was a generic template. The spikes were made by pressing the Foam-Mo Foam Clay into Pyramid shaped silicone molds. I bought a set on Amazon. They took quite a while to dry. The base is made from SKS Props 6mm HD Foam. To be honest, not my favorite foam to use.

Tom finished up the assembly and got it ready for paint. He used hot glue to simulate the welding lines in the movie prop.

Gauntlet

The gauntlet is designed from a generic gauntlet pattern, with extra pieces added to make up the finger guard. I used half-round pearls from the craft store for the rivets. I didn’t want to deal with the sound of rattling googly eyes every time I moved.

This one is coated with DAP Kwik Seal thinned with water. We’ve been trying out different seal coating products for this purpose. Tom gave it the standard metal paint treatment.

The Final Shin-sult

Apparently, I didn’t take many photos of my shin armor. They’re in storage right now and a pain to get out, so this picture will have to suffice for the time being until I can update it. I know they’re sitting a little high. That’s why the rest of the picture is there to distract you.

General Kael’s Sword

Materials:
 – Multiple Thicknesses of EVA-38 Foam (TNT)
 – Steel Rod, 3/8″
 – Barge TF Contact Cement

Sword Core

The blade is made from two long strips of 6mm EVA Foam (TNT). The core of the sword is a 3/8″ steel rod. In retrospect, it would have been smarter to put in two rods and leave the center open because of the fuller. If you look at it up close, you can see the rod through the foam since the fuller is on both sides. We could’ve also just shaded it a different color, but I think at that point it was too late for that.

This is the same method used for Sorsha’s sword as well.

The Scalloped Edge

The design of the scalloping in the edge of the sword is actually offset like it is in the movie prop.

The Scalloped Edge – Transformed

You can see the scalloping on the edge looks really good here. Tom, was the main builder for both swords and had the patience to grind out each groove in the scallop with a rotary tool. I made the guard and rings and Tom made everything else.

The Fuller

Grinding in the fuller was a two-person undertaking, because of the types of tools we had at our disposal. Tom’s drill press needed some maintenance and was out of commission for this. I bought a plunge jig for a drill and after some careful measuring, we locked the plunge depth and ground out the fuller with a round sanding bit purchased at Ax-Man Surplus. This is when we discovered the metal rod was a problem.

The Finished Hilt

The finished hilt.

Scabbards / Holders

I bought 2 frogs for the swords. I kept the scabbard simple since I wanted the sword to be visible, even when it was in the holder.

Chainmail

I wasn’t sure if I could get a quality hauberk in my size that would stay together properly during extended wear, so I settled for a fabric version that was passable at a distance. This is the close-up pattern of the weave.